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Let Them Eat Penne
They say that when God (a.k.a. Mario
Batali) closes one oven door, he always opens a
kitchen window, or vice versa. And so it goes at
Otto Enoteca Pizzeria, where, having held
out on his pasta-crazed fans for months in order to
remain true to his vision of what a proper
Italian-train-station-inspired joint like this
should serve, Batali has begun dishing up the
linguine. Alas, to make room for the pasta cooker,
the fry station has been displaced. We’ll certainly
miss Monday night’s fried calzone, but the seven
classic pastas ($9 each), including a rich penne
alla Norma, a good spaghetti carbonara, and a deeply
satisfying trenette alla genovese (pictured), more
than compensate.
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