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New York Magazine
August 2004
 


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Let Them Eat Penne
They say that when God (a.k.a. Mario Batali) closes one oven door, he always opens a kitchen window, or vice versa. And so it goes at Otto Enoteca Pizzeria, where, having held out on his pasta-crazed fans for months in order to remain true to his vision of what a proper Italian-train-station-inspired joint like this should serve, Batali has begun dishing up the linguine. Alas, to make room for the pasta cooker, the fry station has been displaced. We’ll certainly miss Monday night’s fried calzone, but the seven classic pastas ($9 each), including a rich penne alla Norma, a good spaghetti carbonara, and a deeply satisfying trenette alla genovese (pictured), more than compensate.


 

By Robin Raisfeld & Rob Patronite (Photo credit: Kenneth Chen)


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